Monday, February 25, 2008

Leaving Hondo and Texas (on-the-road notes)

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Well, we finally did it! We got out of Texas! Both of us really wondered if we would ever make it – Texas goes on and on and on.

It's been so long since we have really been on the road; I forget how Fred gets behind the wheel and goes and goes and goes. Ten hours we drove and we were still in Texas when we finally packed it in for the night!

While he drives – I watched and wrote and occasionally managed to convince him to stop so I could take a picture. Here are some of my “on-the-road” notes:

Friday

  • It was very early in the morning; the sun coming up lit the rows of RVs, each with its own distinct character.
  • The odd dog walker meandered down the road as their four-legged love objects wander from side to side sniffing to find out what had gone on since their last visit and leaving their marks for the next caller that came along.
  • With arms flaying, the exercise walkers strutted forward relentlessly to fulfil the purpose of their missions.
  • It was quiet and calm.
  • Heading out on the road was exciting. We were flanked on both sides by the same flatness – fields on either side – some ploughed but more covered with dry brown grass and leafless bushes – few building, little traffic.
  • A bit of a giggle – a semi trailer truck hauling a huge tanker with MAALOX written across the side of the tank. We need to make sure we don’t eat at the same place he does!!
  • The further west we go: the more cactus invaded the fields – prickly pear mostly.
  • We still saw some live oak but more mesquite showed up along the way. I felt like I was watching an old Halloween movie with its gnarly, twisted, eerie, branches.
  • The road turned north; waves of hills emerged against the horizon. The road ripped through each hill exposing layers of limestone and history built up over eons of wind, water and time.

  • Now the land is peppered with Yucca plants rather than mesquite. Creosote bushes take over and we have desert.

Once we reached the Texas border, it was like putting your foot into an old shoe – not exciting but familiar and comfortable. Same road; same RV Park (Sunny Acres, Las Cruces) in New Mexico; and the opportunity to visit old friends and revisit treasured places.

Paul and Lynne have done wonders with Sunny Acres. The first time we were there it was an old worn-out mobile home park. They’ve managed to transform it into a welcoming spot for RV’er to come, visit and even stay on for an extended period of time and Las Cruces still is one of our favourite cities.

Onto Casa Grande, with a couple nights stop in Benson, and the opportunity to visit with more friends – Ed and Mary, who we met earlier this year in Tennessee, and Arnie, who is from our Condo in Lethbridge.

Well, now we’re in Yuma. This part of the trip is definitely the visiting friends piece. Sallee and John are just next door here in the Foothills, we’re visited with friends who are down here from Pincher Creek, and we are meeting other friends from BC in Quartzsite next week.

We’ve been down to Algadones, Mexico for Fred to get new glasses. I got my teeth cleaned for $20.00 and bought a new purse and vanilla and ate great fish and shrimp tacos. And some great shots of some of the of kids!

We went back out the Felicity, California (population maximum 5 people) to the “Center of the World”. It’s just as weird now as it was three years ago!! But I did get a few pictures – the stairs from the Eiffel Tower sitting in the middle of the field and their infamous pyramid .





Next week, we’ll be off to Quartzsite for a week or so. After that we will probably stop in Laughlin, then Las Vegas and (depending on the weather) work our way north.

What a trip and adventure this has been.

Monday, February 11, 2008

Here We Go!

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We left Rockport and the ‘Big D’ on Friday (Feb.1) and to our amazement there were people at our place at 7 in the morning to say good-bye! It reminded me so much of leaving camp on the last day – maybe things don’t change that much? Close relationships happen quickly - some last and some don’t.

I’ve decided that I am “a friend collector” – once I find a friend, I have a hard time letting go. I so value the friends I have made along the way – even as far back as elementary school.
I had mixed feelings about leaving - on one hand I was looking so forward to being on the road again but on the other hand, it was so tough to leave all the fine friends we made over the past 6 weeks.

Oh, we stopped for gas before we left Rockport and found out all the rear lights on the right side aren't working. No, it's not the bulbs - tried that!! There's always something, isn't there?

We stayed at the Lone Start Corral in Hondo (about 30 miles west of San Antonio) It's an interesting park - an Escapees Co-op park - which means that most of the sites are owned by members of the Co-op. Other RV’ers, like us are called Visitors. If an owner is not going to be there, their sites can be rented to “visitors” or “temporaries” like us.

The site we had was at least twice the width of the one in Rockport and half the length again. BUT - there's something to be said about being closer together - the people seem to be more connected! But then each park has its own unique character. They don't seem to sit out and visit - maybe it was just too cold.

That first day Fred tried to find out what was going on with the lights (and I judged a chili cook-off I got volunteered for). No matter who we talked to, we were pointed in umpteen different directions to see and explore - our decision - San Antonio and the Hill Country.

First Stop – San Antonio

Sunday - San Antonio! For a city San Antonio is not bad (if you can tolerate cities). The biggest attraction for us was the River Walk that everybody talks about.
Apparently it was always a waterway used by the Spanish to supply water to the various missions in the area. But occasionally it flooded and in the '20's after a particularly devastating flood, they decided to do something about it. It wasn't until the late 60's that it really came into its own. It's not unlike the canals in
Venice, Italy. It runs for about 2 1/2 miles and all sorts of fancy restaurants, shops, hotel, churches, vendors, etc line both sides of the water. We took a gondola-like boat ride with a great guide - told us all sorts of stories - and got a great view of the whole place. Of course, we stopped and ate at one of the outside cafes!!







Then we went out to the Market Square that is definitely a Mexican Market - some inside - but the best was outside. It extends about 2 good sized blocks with all types of vendors, restaurants and musicians.





Touring the Texas Hill Country
Monday, we decided to head up into the Hill Country - up towards Bandera and Fredericksburg. What different terrain. As soon as you start heading north you start heading into hills. They're not mountains, but rolling hills covered with some trees but mostly bushes. The fields are scrubby and winter dry and brown. It reminds you that even if it is in the '70's - it is winter!

The area is one huge ranch after another and Bandera is called the Cowboy Capital of Texas.

Unique and creative entrances decorate almost every driveway leading up to the ranches. Stone walls often extend on an upward slope from the highway to powerful Gate posts. Most often the gates are elaborately designed rot-iron with intricate overhead arches depicting the ranch’s name, brand and animals. There must be some kind of competition amongst the ranchers as to who can build the biggest and fanciest entrance-way to their ranches.

We went up as far as Fredericksburg which is a very old German community. It's become fairly touristy with unique little gift shops all up and down the main street. Some of the buildings date back to the mid 1800’s and reflect the surrounding rock and stone as well as the Bavarian heritage.

Our major stops were at the Pioneer Museum - talking with a 90 year old tour guide - fifth generation Fredericksburg’er - and incredible German meals of Weiner Schnitzel and 'Knockers' with sauerkraut.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Exploring Around Rockport - Out and About


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Rockport is fairly central and we did a number of day trips out and about. Heading north, we visited some of the smaller historic sites like Beesville, Goliad and a small place like Skidmore.

Skidmore had a great little Mexican Cafe where they fed us authentic food we had never heard of before - then onto Beesville with it's historic buildings and my farourite fence and Goliad that has become quite an artists' centre and is surounded by a number of Mission sites,









Beesville Fence - Sundial - Mission Complex - Church Alter

Monday, February 4, 2008

Exploring Around Rockport- Aransas Wildlife Refuge

"Jacob's Tails ... (Back-to-the-Land)"
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We didn’t choose the greatest times to see all the wildlife but here a snapshot of a few things we did see. The marshes are fascinating! The armadillos, javelins, whoopers, nesting turkey vultures .













Saturday, February 2, 2008

Exploring around Rockport - Mustang Island – Port Aransas

"Jacob's Tails ... (Back-to-the-Land)"
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Aransas Pass is just a few mile south of Rockport where bridges, causeways and finally a ferry take you over to Mustang Island and Port Aransas. The gal at the Gift Shop in Goliad told us that since Port Aransas started developing as a winter tourist destination the prices have escalated and many of the artists have moved out and gone to Goliad and Rockport. The beaches were the greatest attraction for us.




Tuesday, January 22, 2008

South Texas Ain’t Bad

"Jacob's Tails ... (Back-to-the-Land)"
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Been neglectful, haven’t I? I’m not sure if it is because we’ve been stopped for so long or because we’re really not doing a whole lot.

I love the travelling and travelling is fun, but it becomes very expensive. Not only that – it can be too much in too short a period of time. Different places and experiences start running all together and it’s tough to remember where you saw or did what – time to stay put for a while.

Texas is not the most exciting southern state we have ever been in BUT down here on the coast, the weather has been VERY good. Not to say that it is always like this, but this year, for us, it’s been great. AND the attitude is most inviting. Instead of the distain you often experience as Snowbirds in Arizona, here, the Winter Texans are generally welcomed (they tend to appreciate the boost to their economy that those winter escapees bring).

We have met folks who discovered the area many years ago and have wintered here for nearly a dozen years but Rockport reminds me of a wanna be tourist destination. There are several new (in the past 3 years) RV parks; signs advertising lots for sale and so-and-so Estates sites ready to be build on in front of fancy fences and gates but no buildings. On the other hand there are a few rather excessive places that cater to those who enjoy the luxuries of life.

Once you get away from the water and beaches, the terrain tends to be flat, sandy and scrubby.

The Live Oak are to be the most prevalent form of vegetation. The Live Oak is interesting in that it takes so many different forms. Growing in sandy soil in a humid climate, it flourishes here. Scrubby Live Oak (or Texas live oak) bushes are scattered over vast sandy fields. And then there are the forest-like areas that boast huge 1000 year old trees.

The high humidity is something that gets to me BUT my hair is a lot curlier, my skin isn’t so dry and I seem to be getting used to it (heaven forbid).

When we were in Livingstone TX, Fred found a ‘highly recommended’ new park here in Rockport. We called and were told that we may have to dry camp in the overflow section for a couple of days but there was a spot for us for at least a month. So when we finally found ‘Coastal Oaks’, we thought we knew what to expect.

NOT!

Yes, we survived without services (except for power) for almost a week and moved into a site where the folks were away for a while . . . BUT . . . it turned out that the construction of the park was proceeding at ‘South Texas standard time’; the sites would not be ready for a while AND the owner had managed to double book most of the sites, anyway. Even though the place has a lot of potential, we decided we wanted something a little more stable so we started looking for another park.

Big D RV Resort

After looking around a bit, we have ended up in an RV park called Big D RV Resort around the middle of December. Big D is owned by a local Vietnamese fellow and named for his son, who is a famed American Football Player or something!

I would say that it was built by people who have absolutely no idea how to design or build an RV Park. It is only three years old and I wonder how it will stand up for even another three years but it had what we want – NOT big (some parks have between 1500 to 2000 sites – there are about 100 here); it’s clean, and has good and reliable WiFi (most of the time). We are on the Salt Lake which is actually a small inlet off the Copano Bay of the Gulf of Mexico. The few trees they have planted don’t give much protection against winds coming off the water so it can be rather windy. There is a swimming pool that nobody uses (saying it is too cold) and a pier going off into the Lake. I’ve looked off the pier and really wonder how any fish would survive in that water.

As with most RV parks, as more and more people moved in, more and more cliques develop. It’s interesting to watch and listen to the goings-on; the party people; the power struggles; the gossip; and the stories.

All kinds of different RVs line either side of the two roads that run from the water to the office, the club house, rec room and laundry buildings at the entrance to the park. There are small pull trailers, big pull trailers, 5th wheel of all sizes, shapes and designs and humongous motorhomes that are bigger than our condo.

The folks who call the RVs home are as diverse as the RVs. themselves. People are from all over; some bring their whole lives and many bring their fantasies. Each and every rig has its own story.

An amazing number of RVers sport pets of some type – mostly dogs – and each morning there is a parade of people walking dogs or exercisers doing the mile circuit up one road and down the other. If the weather is half decent (which it is most of the time), the circuit takes a long time as the walkers stop to visit the non-walkers sitting out with a cup of coffee. Every vehicle that goes by gets the traditional hand wave – even if you don’t know them. Sometimes the vehicles will stop in the middle of the road to visit.

I’m fascinated by the accents – sometimes I have absolutely no idea what people are saying – especially folks from Missouri and Arkansas. I had to laugh at one gal here who calls herself an Ozark American.

The people who are used to going to resort-type places get all gung-ho about what activities there are in the park. Big D let their Activities Director go just before we got here and now any activities are planned and carried out by anyone except staff and I’m not sure what the staff does except man the office, do necessary maintenance work and clean-up the common areas. But, then again, they are all work-campers and only work a limited number of hours a week in exchange for their sites and power. This is an interesting arrangement and makes for a lot of power-plays, poor organization and nothing getting done.

They managed to change some of the rules in mid-January and that gave the residents wonderful fodder for gossip and complaining with threats about not returning and soliciting people to move to another park or even area.

Besides the activities planned by other folks, fishing is a major draw to this whole area. It seems to me that watching football may be the next major activity and certainly going shopping or going out to eat vie for the third major consumer of time. Everybody keeps track of the good deals (like the $1.75 lunch special at the Big Fisherman Tuesdays at noon) and the good food places.

Fred is spending a lot of his time helping people with their computer problems. I’ve stopped worrying about where he is because he’s probably in somebody’s RV getting them onto the WiFi or converting their systems to Vista or just causing hate and discontent. He did one computer session in the Recreation Hall for anyone in the park who was interested.

Oh, I’ll do more pictures once I get them off the camera.

Friday, December 14, 2007

Next Stop Texas

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Well, we're not sitting still! One day we went off to Mississippi (it's really not that far from here-Biloxi is only about an hour). The road is suspended over one swampy area after another. People are parked and fishing along both sides of the road and there is still evidence of damaged and destroyed buildings - restaurants, houses, businesses. Replacement buildings sit 15 feet above the ground presumably to protect them in the case of another hurricane and flood. Mind you, Katrina brought in a 35 foot wall of water, so one wonders.

Well, we're not sitting still! One day we went off to Mississippi (it's really not that far from here-Biloxi is only about an hour). The road is suspended over one swampy area after another. People are parked and fishing along both sides of the road and there is still evidence of damaged and destroyed buildings - restaurants, houses, businesses. Replacement buildings sit 15 feet above the ground presumably to protect them in the case of another hurricane and flood. Mind you, Katrina brought in a 35 foot wall of water, so one wonders.


As we headed west, the damage and destruction caused by Katrina is far more evident. We had a great opportunity to talk to the gal at the "
Biloxi Welcome Center" for over an hour telling us about the storm, the destruction, the evacuation and the on-going restorations.

They have just opened the new bridge leading to Biloxi. It replaces a draw bridge that replaced the previous bridge taken out by the previous big storm.

Prior to Katrina Casinos were only allowed off-shore - now they are prominent throughout the city, giving Biloxi a total different look.


We did the casino (Fred came out $80.00 ahead I lost $2.00); we ate (it was a 2 for one buffet)
AND we didn't once take a wrong turn all the way there and back!! Were we ever proud of ourselves.

We knew it was time to move on when we were no longer taking wrong roads and not getting lost trying to find places – so off towards Texas.

To get to Texas we had to go through Mobile, AL, through Mississippi and through Louisiana. Both Mississippi and Louisiana are very narrow so we made it almost to Texas the first night. But going through Mobile offered us the same challenges most cities do. Our stress levels increase at a rapid rate as we try to be on the right road, read signs and get into the right lane to take the exit we’re supposed to take (Actually, Mobile wasn’t nearly as bad as Houston). Our entire exposure to Mobile was from the highway so I really can’t comment on the attractiveness of the place. It has big buildings and a neat tunnel!

Unlike Mississippi and Louisiana no matter what part of Texas you are in (north, south, east or west) it is vast – something like Ontario. Livingston, TX was the place we decided to stop and figure out what we were going to do for the next four or so months. It is the headquarters of Escapees RV Club and I needed to pick up the payment they owed me for the article in their Magazine. We also wanted to tour the Care Center.

Now that's an interesting place. They've set up a whole RV park area devoted to RV'ers who for reasons of health or infirmity cannot travel. They live in their own rigs, get three meals a day; someone comes in and cleans their place and there are volunteers that drive them to appointments and stuff. Mostly volunteers run the place. It costs them $800.00 a month ($1200 for a couple) I think it is a great concept!

Rio Grand Valley or being near the water (the Gulf) – that was the question. We have opted for the Gulf.

So we arrived here at Rockport, TX a few days ago and are still trying to get our bearings. Supposedly, Rockport is a great place for birding and it is where the Whooping Cranes winter. We have visited the beach and the wild-life refuge and still have so much more to do.

How long are we here for?? Haven’t got a clue – maybe until we don’t take wrong roads anymore?