Friday, April 25, 2014

March Madness . . . Part 2

Oh my – when we left Quartzsite, we thought we had way more time than before we needed to hit the going-home road . . . a few days at Lake Mead . . . a week at the Escapees Park in Pahrump (I love the way that word rolls around my mouth and the pops off my lips) . . . a quick tour of Death Valley . . . would put us on the time-line to head home.

We checked into Pahrump only to realize that we had lost a week somewhere along the way . . . Long story short we only spent three days there . . . wandered around Death Valley and Amargosa and headed off . . . homeward bound.

Death Valley

Even if geology isn’t your thing, approaching and driving through Death Valley gives you a sense of all the tremendous geological happenings throughout the ages. The valley is a basin surrounded by rugged mountains, both barren and colourful.

Death Valley was formed from debris sliding down the sides of the mountain ranges into this enclosed valley of the Great Basin region.

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Death Valley Junction

We revisited Death Valley Junction and the Amargosa Hotel and Opera House that we discovered when we took a wrong turn on our first visit to Death Valley.

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Like so many of the small towns in southern California and Arizona, Death Valley Junction was built around mining (borax was mined around Death Valley Junction until the late 1940s) and the railroad. And like so many southern California and Arizona towns, it died.

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Apparently in the mid 1960s, Marta Becket, an actor from New York (obviously with lots of money), undertook restoring the opera house and the attached hotel. Being a very creative woman, she painted frescos on the walls throughout the hotel (very folksy) and she and her partner presented performances every Saturday until his death a few years ago.

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To our amazement, Marta is still alive and still presides over a Saturday night performance.

The complex is showing signs of age and neglect, but I was assured by a gal (who was working to convert the old barbershop to on art gallery), that they are in the throws of revitalizing the whole area.

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Artist Drive: is one of our favourite tours in the Valley.

The impact of the millions and millions of years of geological eruption and settling are everywhere. The Artist Drive takes you up into a unique colourful rock formation. A one-way trail winds in, around and through the lava and sedimentary rock.

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One section called the Artist Palette gives a fascinating view of the layers created from the movement and folding of the earth’s crust. Each stratum represents eons of geological time of rain, wind and erosion.

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A raven was standing guard at the Palette. He considered it his job to have his picture taken and posed for us as well as at least a dozen other visitors’ photo shoots.

Badwater Salt Flats

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After the water receded (billions of years ago) it left some areas smooth and barren and others covered with heavy salt residue. The Badwater Salt Flats, with a well-developed visitor area, is one of the most fascinating salt areas.

The story goes that the flats were named by an old miner who brought his mules there to drink. When the animals refused to drink he named the area Badwater Flats.

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The flats lay 282 feet below sea level. There are walks that go for miles out onto the salt. It seldom rains in Death Valley but pools of water seep up from underground springs and dot the salt-white land.

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Tiny salt-resistant pupfish are only found here and flourish in the waters.

For millions, perhaps billions of years, the region we now call Death Valley has erupted, flooded, shifted, scorched and revitalized itself over and over again. It has and will always continue to change. Scientists, prospectors and visitors alike are drawn to the mysteries and promises of the valley.

And here we were wondering if we have clean clothes to make it home. Ludicrous, isn’t it?

We made it home on April Fools Day! – Do you think that means something?

 

Friday, March 21, 2014

March Madness . . .

It took us three days to tour and photograph the Sculpture sites in and around the Anza-Borrego Park and we did miss some because they had been damaged by the recent storm and the road was not passable. The sculptures were exciting but we were disappointed with the lack of wild-flowers and not too anxious to stick around. 
Pay-It-Forward
Just before we left last fall there was a rash of pay-it-forward  incidents of people buying rounds of coffee for all the folks in a local favourite coffee shop (Tim Horton’s). The practice spread like wild-fire in Canada and we found ourselves experiencing the same thing at the ice cream shop in Borrego Springs. The fellow in front of us insisted on paying for ours and a few others. It was a very strange experience.
La Quinta and Lake Cahuilla
BUT it was time to leave the dry and desolate part of California and find a spot that felt more alive. A County campground (The Lake Cahuilla in La Quinta) filled that goal – in a couple of days we felt revitalized and needed to leave the cultivated city and head back to Arizona and Quartzsite..
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The Highlights of our visit were spending time with our Truth and Consequences friends, Deb & Jer, Deb’s Mom’s Gum Gallery, and our trip out to Palm Canyon.
The Gum Gallery!
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Deb’s Mom, Joanne Brunet has been collecting gum and gum paraphernalia since she was a young child. It is now housed in a dedicated building on their property in Quartzsite.
Joanne is hiding behind this huge crocheted gum ball machine that one of her fans crocheted for her.
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Palm Canyon
Quartzsite is comfortable for us. We love our spot along the wash where we can treasure the flora and fauna around us.
I don’t remember ever seeing the Palo Verde in full bloom like it was.
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Palm Canyon is in the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge and the subject of the painting done by our friend, Elizabeth Lauder. that travels with us no mater where we go. Until now, we had never been out there . . . but now we that have the Tracker . . .
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Seven miles off SR 95 a windy, desert road takes you to the entrance to Palm Canyon. Along the way, Fred managed to capture some flowering cacti spied by Sheila’s eagle eye.
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 IMG_7359As with most canyons, Palm Canyon is the result of thousands of years of volcanic eruption, wind, flooding and erosion that continues to this day. The name comes from the unique grove of California Fan Palms that exist in the canyon. Apparently they are Arizona’s only native Palm trees. Some believe seeds were brought into the Canyon by birds and grew in this protected environment.
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Thursday, March 20, 2014

We came for the Flowers and Stayed for the Sculptures

Borrego Springs is a small resort village in the middle of Anza-Borrego State Park about 25 miles west of the Salton Sea in California.
The first time we were there was near the end of February, 2005.
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The whole winter had been rainy and the flowers flourished.
This year there had been about 4.8 inches of rain since July 1 but then there was an extended dry period and then a deluge of rain in mid-February. Too little – too late. P3060007 Even the creosote and the brittle bush were struggling to produce green leaves. 
Our viewing of flowers was limited to a few cactus flowers and others cultivated shrubs around the Visitors Centers. IMG_7282
ChollaOcotillo (4)
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We knew that our chances of seeing wild-flowers was slim but we did want to re-explore the metal sculptures we had discovered then.
The collection has expanded from just a few renderings of pre-historic animals and historic Borrego figures to about 130 sculptures scattered over 30 sites throughout the 3000 acre Galleta Meadows owned by Dennis Avery (the grandson of the Avery Office Supplies who died just a couple of years ago). His philosophy was . . . “Blessings are meant to be shared”. And he commissioned Ricardo Breceda to create the sculptures.
Here are just a few of our favourites! (Fred is hoping to put together a Slide Show with many more  of the sculptures).
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The Scorpion and the Grasshopper share the same site. In life the nocturnal Scorpion lays in wait for its prey-the grasshopper.
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The sun and the abundance of water in the area led to the development of vineyards. The water and thus the vineyards both disappeared but the sculptures of the workers remain as a reminder.
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These Camelops roamed the area and are ancient descendants of the camel. The are called Camelops because the limbs on each side moved in conjunction with one another.
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Not a reproduction of a pre-historic animal but a 350 foot imaginary creature with the tail of a rattlesnake, the body of a serpent and the head of a Chinese Dragon. It’s huge and winds under the road.
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This canine accompanies the sculpture of Pedro Font who was considered a spiritual leader of the mid 1770’s expeditions to California.
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Three of the 6 flight-capable Wind God birds in North America were found in the Anza-Borrego area. The bird had a 17 ft wing span and stood 4 ft high. It existed about 3.5 million years ago. The sculpture is about twice the original size.
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These horses became extinct approximately 11,000 years ago.

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Spring Starts in February

As the season unravels, our spirits get restless again and we long for the solitude and connection with the desert. Then again, we need to clean out and up and re-energize with a visit to a park.
So after we left Ogilby Road (California) we ended up back in Casa Grande (Arizona) at Rovers Roost - the Escapees Park. I like Casa Grande and I like this park. It is not the newest or the fanciest park but it is warm and inviting.
I like Casa Grande much better than Yuma, too. Did I ever mention the bumper sticker I saw in Yuma that said, “If this is Snowbird season, why can’t we shoot them?” And this is the way Yuma feels to me. So, given a choice, I would choose Casa Grande even as a city, it feels more congenial.
Having said that, we stayed our week and headed off to the desert south of Why, Arizona (about 10 miles south of Ajo and about the same distance north of the Organ Pipe Cactus National Park).
It was then that I realized that spring had started!
The yellow flowers are erupting out of the brittle bush and tiny purple-flowered mats scatter the landscape. We followed the narrow Indian Road 15 from Casa Grande to Why. It runs through the Tohono O’Odham land that is covered with a unique profusion of cacti: Suarago; Prickly Pear; Cholla (No photos – was too narrow to pull over!).
Why, Why?
Why, AZ is a tiny little community at the junction of hwy 85 that leads to Mexico and hwy 86 that goes off to Tucson. It hosts the Why-Not store and service station, two RV parks Coyote West and Coyote East; a very active Senior Center and a large flock of snowbirds. There is a Casino and another RV park further down the road towards Tucson.
The settlement was named Why to qualify for a Post Office. They needed to have three letters in the name so chose ‘Y’ to coincide with the junction in the road.
The third day we were there, we went to a Flea Market/Craft show at the Senior Center and then to a great burger place in Ajo with Chuck & Sheila - our friends from Wetaskiwin.
Gunsight, the BLM where we stay, is two miles south of Why . As with most BLM lands, it is totally undeveloped except for the trails created by the campers. if you don't get back to your site in the daylight, it could take you days to find your place again!
The first site we found turned out to be a bit of a dud - not what we liked. We toured around and found another spot much more to our liking on a different Wash (a wash is a dry riverbed). After just a few hour the hummingbirds were already coming to visit . . . that’s better!
This is why we like Why!
We were parked overlooking the wash. we spotted the occasional rabbit and watch the squirrels and birds play and dart in and out of the bushes. I sit at the table with the feeder just outside on the window. We scattered birdseed and put out water in a spot that I can watch everything right from there.
Sure, it’s a hummingbird feeder and the hummers found it quickly but this year, we had so many unique and extraordinary visitors.
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The Verdins and the Orioles found the feeder
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But the Finches and the Gila Woodpeckers preferred the oranges that hung in the nearby mesquite tree.
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The Thrashers and Towhees are species we have never seen here before and so were pleasantly surprised.
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Green Tailed Towhee

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Spotted Towhee

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Curved Bill Thrasher

I must say that if it weren’t for our birder friends, Judy and Terry, who pulled in a few days after we arrived, we probably would have had no idea what we were looking at.
We have seen the Cardinals before but it was a delight to have them visitor again.

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A less welcome visitor was the rattlesnake. He slowly slithered over the sand without even startling the birds or the Squirrel around him.
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Coyote Melons
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Have you ever heard of Coyote Melons? They are in abundance this year. They initially look like tiny round watermelons and then turn yellow and look like yellow tennis balls.
The Coyote Melon is native to Southwest United States and Northwest Mexico but are relatively uncommon. They grow in hot, arid regions with low rainfall in soil that is loose, gravelly, and well drained. The vines sprawl out and orange-yellow curling trumpet flowers grow out green striped fruit.
We were told they were poisonous to us but it turns out that the pulp is the “bitterest substances known to mankindFor all this, Indians did roast and eat the highly nutritional oily seeds after carefully cleaning them of pulp.  The Indians attribute coyote, “the trickster”, with giving these melons a bitter flavour while providing edible seeds.”
http://www.mojavedesertlandtrust.org/coyotemelon.php
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